Thursday, October 25, 2018

Offshore to Block Island - Post 4

Leaving Cape May in the company of dolphins was a good omen and we were excited about the passage ahead. Two hundred and twenty nautical miles (410 km) was 70% longer than our previous 130 mile (240 km) passage. It would also mark another first for us, as we planned to spend two days out at sea.

Leaving Cape May, there was a breeze of 5-10 knots (9-18 km/h) from the south and it stayed with us for most of the passage, occasionally dropping to zero and other times climbing to 13-15 knots (24-28 km/h). We set the engine to 2000 rpm and motorsailed up the coast. We stayed about 10 miles (18 km) offshore to try and get out of some of the shipping traffic. The strategy worked as we saw several barges between us and the coast.

Ten Miles (18 km) Offshore from the New Jersey Coast
Sport Fisherman in the Distance

In the evening, we were greeted by a beautiful sunset, the first in the open Atlantic in almost ten years. While motoring for prolonged periods is not the most comfortable way to cover sea miles, we got into a routine of two-hour watches. As the night fell, fog rolled in and frequently both of us were in the cockpit to track targets on RADAR and AIS. Visibility in fog at night is really hard to judge but we could see around Rosalind for some short distance, maybe 100 yards (100 meters).

Sunset in the Atlantic

As we approached Sandy Hook and New York City, we started picking up large ships in the shipping lanes. We tracked them and on one occasion communicated with the captain. While we were not transmitting AIS at the time, we did have a RADAR reflector up the mast and we got confirmation that we showed up on RADAR 4.5 miles (8.3 km) away. We could hear the ship's powerful fog horn almost 5 miles (9 km) away but we could not see it, aside from on our instruments. So, it was good to know that we were visible to him.

Light Fog, 10 Miles (18 km) off the New Jersey Coast
Large Ship in the Distance

RADAR (with guard zone in red) and Chartplotter (with AIS) Showing Shipping Traffic at Night, 15 miles (28 km) Offshore of New York City

Our plan was to stay out of the way of the big ships and, to avoid any potential issues, contact them on VHF radio. The communication was well received every time and we found the captains responsive to our RADAR queries.

Shortly after sunset we also started our own fog horn. Our VHF radio has this feature, which proved invaluable, and every two minutes it automatically sounds the fog horn through a hailer which we have mounted on the mizzen mast. This is a great feature as we would not want to have to manually sound a bell every two minutes for hours on end! The bad news is that it’s really hard to sleep with a horn blasting every two minutes...

Fog Getting Thicker, 10 miles (18 km) off Long Island

The next morning we turned to the east, sailing parallel to Long Island, New York. The morning sun burned off the night’s fog and we had a pleasant morning motorsailing along Long Island. By early afternoon fog started rolling in. It was patchy but we had more fog than not. As the temperature dropped, visibility reduced dramatically and through the night we were in pea soup thick fog. It was hard to judge where there was water and where there was not, as everything turned white. There was enough light from our running lights to illuminate the surroundings. It was a strange experience. The great news about the second evening was that we had no traffic around us with the exception of a “ghost ship”. Early in the evening, between some fog patches, we spotted a ship with four or five very bright lights. We estimated it to be several miles away but it was not transmitting an AIS signal and was not showing up on RADAR. After extensive observations we concluded that it must have been a wooden fishing boat. When looking at the charts and chartplotters, we had a question about an exclusion zone and we contacted the Coast Guard for some clarification, but otherwise the evening was uneventful.

The next morning, however, was another story. Rounding Montauk Point on Long Island and getting into Block Island Sound, we got into heavy traffic. The fog was at its thickest with visibility probably down to 100 feet (30 meters). We could see nothing. Our eyes were glued to the RADAR, AIS, and chartplotter. The distance to get to the Great Salt Pond Channel was short, less than six miles (11 km), but the traffic was crazy. We had to make evasive maneuvers twice before we got to the channel and also gave way to a fast-moving catamaran that had no RADAR. We contacted the catamaran on the VHF as we were on a collision course and told them we could see them on AIS and RADAR. They were doing 8 knots (15 km/h) with zero visibility! Their comment was, “We don’t have RADAR but we will sort it all out.” We selected to give them plenty of room and let them pass us. There were almost a dozen boats going in and coming out of the channel, including a tug pulling a barge (i.e., limited maneuverability). After an hour of this, we finally sighted the red entrance marker. The fog was only marginally better and we were no more that 150 ft (45 m) from the entrance when we heard on the VHF, “Watch it sailboat!” Out of the fog, at full speed, comes a 45 foot (14 meter) sport fisherman. I had to put Rosalind in reverse to avoid the collision and then hold on to avoid being tossed by the wake. As a fellow boater said many years ago, “Some people have more money than sense.”

View from Cockpit, Leaving Cape May, New Jersey - Nice!

View from Cockpit, Approach to Block Island Sound 
Visibility Less Than 50 ft (15m)!

We got in the channel and when we entered the Great Salt Pond the fog started lifting. At 10:00 am we dropped anchor in 35 feet (11 meters) of emerald green water and payed out 185 ft (56 m) of chain. We set up the anchor chain snubber and concluded our first 200+ mile (400+ kilometer) passage. It had taken us exactly two days. We were on Block Island!


Friday, October 19, 2018

Cape May, New Jersey - Post 3

The Canyon Club Resort Marina, home to large sport-fishing yachts, was located just outside the Cape May Canal, just after the second bridge in the canal. We crossed the second bridge and turned to port towards the marina, but the current had other ideas. In a couple of seconds Rosalind had done a full 180 degree turn as the current had carried her bow all the way around.  So now we had to turn hard to starboard and get some power in the water to prevent the current from sweeping us past the marina entrance. Before long we were in. 

Negotiating our slip was the next challenge. Located on the other side of the fuel dock, we had to get in the marina, turn to starboard, avoid the shoal area, then do a 180 degree turn. It would be a tight turn for a twin-engine powerboat, let alone for a single-engine sailboat without a bow thruster. Folks from the neighboring powerboat came out to watch; we are guessing part entertainment, part concern about us hitting them. But we got in and Rosalind came to rest against the dock ever so gently. The docking was a success. It was time to cool down so we went to get an ice cream at the marina store and checked in. 

Rosalind in Canyon Club Resort Marina, Cape May, NJ

Later that afternoon we used the marina shuttle to get to town and enjoyed walking and seeing the Painted Ladies, the Victorian homes Cape May is famous for. We really liked the town, because, while filled with tourists, it had a clear history and was not all made up and artificial.

Painted Lady, Cape May, New Jersey

Painted Lady, Cape May, New Jersey

The next day was packed with running errands: getting fuel, going grocery shopping, tracking down hardware, deflating the dinghy and storing it on deck, and getting Rosalind ready for her two-day offshore passage to Block Island. While we were getting Rosalind ready, a grandmother with her grandson walked down the dock and came to visit Rosalind. We were the only sailboat on a dock full of sport fishing boats. With wide eyes, the boy asked, "Are you pirates, and is this a pirate ship?"

Rosalind at Canyon Club Resort Marina, Cape May, NJ

We looked at the tides and were ready to leave at first light but there was not enough water in the marina for us to get out so we had to wait until almost high tide. At 10:00 am we were heading out of Cape May Inlet in the company of dolphins! We were heading offshore to Block Island, 220 nautical miles (410 km) away.