New York, New York and Great Kills - Post 10

We were now close to New York City and had staged at a convenient location to pass through Hells Gate at the right time. Our next destination was Great Kills on Staten Island. Looking at Eldridge, we knew we would have to transit through Hells Gate within two hours of the morning slack water. There are two ways to go through New York's East River, the Eastern and the Western Branches. The Western Branch frequently closes to protect dignitaries at the United Nations and the Eastern branch has a drawbridge that would have to open for us to go through. With the strong currents and extensive marine traffic, the Eastern Branch is more challenging as we would have to hold station (wait in place for the bridge to open). Cheryl contacted the US Coast Guard New York Sector to find out if the Western Branch of the East River would be open for our planned transit and we were pleased to hear that it would be open.

At Little Neck Bay, where we were anchored, we were two hours away from Hells Gate. So, at 4:00 am we were up and got underway by 4:45 am. We were excited to traverse this great city by water and the illuminated skyline and bridge were a beautiful sight in early morning.

Throgs Neck Bridge, Little Neck Bay in Early Morning

With RADAR, AIS and two chartplotters going, we raised anchor in some current. We knew we would have current against us initially and planned for that. New York is "The City that Never Sleeps" and even that early there was shipping traffic. We were soon passed by a 110 ft (34 m) power yacht and we spotted a tug pushing a barge a couple of miles behind us. 

The approach to Hells Gate is narrow and full of sharp twists and turns. We kept our eyes open and monitored the approaching tug that was doing 8.5 knots (16 km/h). The currents at Hells Gate can run over 4 knots (7 km/h) and we had timed it to be there a couple of hours after slack water. The tug was closing in fast and with its limited maneuverability, we did not want to go through Hells Gate at the same time. So, we eased the throttle and slowed Rosalind to 2 knots (3.7 km/h) just to maintain steerage and let the tug pass us. The tug Captain waved and we tucked behind it and let its wake give us an extra boost. We went through Hells Gate at 9.4 knots (17 km/h)! The current pushing us was likely 2.5-3 knots (4.5-5.5 km/h) and we got almost 1.5 knots (2.5 km/h) additional pull from the tug so we were flying. By the time we reached Hells Gate it was daylight and we could see commuters driving to work. We left Roosevelt Island to port and we were passing through the heart of the city. There was the Chrysler Building and the Empire State Building and soon after that we passed in front of the United Nations. Cheryl was taking pictures while I was focused on keeping Rosalind pointing in the right direction in the strong current.

Chrysler and United Nation Buildings, New York City

Empire State Building, New York City

After Hells Gate marine traffic really picked up with ferries rushing in all directions. The slow ones were doing 21 knots (39 km/h) while the fast ones were doing 32 knots (59 km/h). We were surrounded. Even when doing 8 knots (15 km/h) we felt like we were standing still in a very busy intersection with everyone buzzing around us. We stayed to the side of the channel, all the Captains were very professional, and we did not have any trouble other than having to hold on as there were large wakes all over and we got tossed around some.

We passed under the Brooklyn Bridge, saluted the Statue of Liberty and crossed New York's Upper Bay where a handful of large ships were at anchor.  Soon were passing under the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge. Had it all been a dream? 

We next turned to starboard and soon were navigating the narrow and shallow channel into Great Kills. We motored through the mooring field, past a sunken sailboat with only the tip of its mast sticking out above the water, and dropped anchor. We were near the Great Kills Park that had a dinghy landing, the only convenient place to get to shore. In the afternoon we went to shore and met with our friend Lydia, who works in the area, and then returned onboard just after sunset. 

The dinghy landing area at Great Kills, unfortunately, was not the best. Without any other options for getting to shore, we decided to move on to another port. So, the next day we were off to Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey.

New Haven and Little Neck Bay - Post 9

We got a mooring at the Pequonnock Yacht Club (PYC) in New Haven. Unlike Old Lyme Marina, the Club did not offer a launch service so we had to inflate and assemble the dinghy to get to shore. The staff and members of the Club were extremely friendly and we were made to feel welcome. Many Club members were interested in our trip and more than once we were invited to join the PYC. Even though we were only there for a couple of days, we were treated like old friends.

The Pequonnock Yacht Club facilities were first-rate and the views from the clubhouse balcony were expansive. Below the clubhouse was the Shell and Bones Restaurant, a fancy restaurant with seating outside, right on the water. We were told that the food was first-rate, but we did not get a chance to sample it. 

Rosalind at her PYC Mooring 
View from the Pequonnock Yacht Club Balcony

We did laundry at the Club; it was the best laundry facility of the entire cruise! We decided to stay an extra day and to see a bit of New Haven. So the next morning we took the dinghy to shore and walked the 2 1/2 miles (4 km) to downtown. The area right next to the water and the Club was fine but a couple of blocks from the water we saw a different side of New Haven:  boarded-up homes and abandoned cars in yards. The apparent poverty was not what took us by surprise but rather the stark contrast between it and the unbelievable wealth of Yale University.  

We got to the city center and Yale University and had a look around the Yale campus. The Yale library was normally off-limits to non-Yale personnel but the security guard at the door invited us in. The staff inside were all very welcoming and polite. We also enjoyed the library's air-conditioning as it was early August and it was still quite hot and humid outside.

 Yale University, New Haven, Connecticut

Nathan Hale Statue, Yale University

 Yale University Library

 Gold Leaf Ceiling, Yale University Library

After visiting the Yale library, we had lunch at Claire's Cornercopia, a landmark organic and vegetarian restaurant from the 1970s with many gluten-free options. The place was packed and the lunch was a wonderful experience.

Within two blocks of the Yale library, with its gold leaf ceilings, was a different world. The city advertised a video monitoring system downtown. We took a bus back and we only had to walk a couple of blocks through the boarded-up part of town. The close proximity of this extreme contrast truly made an impression on us.  

In order to catch the tide, we planned to leave early the next morning. So, after an early sundowner at the Club, we returned to Rosalind, secured the dinghy motor on the sternrail and hoisted the dinghy on the davits. The next morning we followed our inbound track out of New Haven harbor and headed for Stamford, Connecticut.

Sunrise, New Haven, Connecticut

We had fair current for the better part of the day and the miles passed under our keel. We approached Stamford in early afternoon and decided to press on to take advantage of the daylight. Traffic on Long Island Sound was light with a couple of ferries going back and forth between Long Island and the Connecticut shore, and a few sailboats and fishing boats. We mainly motored in light winds from dead ahead.  

After an eleven-hour day we anchored in Little Neck Bay, New York. We had averaged 5 knots (9 km/h) and had covered 55 miles (100 km), our longest single-day (non-overnight) run. We were treated to a beautiful sunset with the sun setting behind Throgs Neck Bridge.

Sunset from Little Neck Bay, New York

Throgs Neck Bridge

Leaving Old Lyme and Motoring to New Haven - Post 8

We thoroughly enjoyed the hospitality at Old Lyme Marina but it was time to continue our cruise south in Long Island Sound on our way to New York. After consulting both weather and tides, we decided to head out in the morning in order to make it to New Haven before sunset.

The mooring field of Old Lyme Marina is nestled between the northern shore of the Connecticut River and Calves Island. The width of the channel is less than a hundred feet (30 m) with two rows of moorings. Because the channel is narrow and the boats swing in unison, we opted not to fly our anchor riding sail. This way, Rosalind would lay similarly to the other boats in the mooring field.

 Looking South (from Rosalind's Starboard)

Old Lyme Marina on Left Side and One of Our Three Close Neighbors

 Looking Southeast

Old Lyme Marina on Right Side and Our Second Close Neighbor

 Looking East

Bank of the Connecticut River

Looking Northeast (from Rosalind's Port)

Mooring Field and Our Third Close Neighbor 

What we noticed shortly after catching the mooring, however, is that with wind over current the boats do not line up with either. This had been on my mind as I knew that we would not have two chances to get Rosalind off the mooring without damage. The current ran at 2 knots (3.7 km/h), the mooring field was packed, and we were very close to the marina dock where a very expensive motor yacht was laying less that two boat lengths from us. With such a strong current, we had to choreograph that departure very precisely. This was necessary as you do not get steerage until water is flowing past the rudder and it takes time for that to happen even after you engage the transmission. So we had to make the current work to our advantage. When the tide was flowing out towards the sound and the wind was coming from the south, Rosalind, tied to the mooring, was facing upriver but was resting at almost 45 degrees to the current because of the wind.

The morning of our departure Cheryl asked, "What is our plan?" and I said, "I have been thinking about it since yesterday...".  So this is what we did. We got Rosalind ready, turned on the instruments, got out the charts, and started the engine. I then took the mooring line off the bollard on the bow and walked it aft on the starboard side, the strong current making it hard work to hold on to the mooring pennant. Once I reached the stern, Cheryl put the engine in reverse and revved up the engine while turning the wheel all the way to port. Rosalind took the strain off the mooring pennant that I was still holding and, almost magically with the help of the current, rotated to starboard through 135 degrees and pointed downriver. I released the pennant and with Cheryl at the helm, we were off. We never got close to any of the other moored boats or the expensive motor yacht.

It was an exciting maneuver and we were very pleased with the whole thing! We then got stuck for over half an hour waiting for the railroad bridge to open so we could get out of the river. The bridge was supposed to be normally open but we found it closed and we could not get the bridge operator to answer our requests so we had to hold station in the current. We called on the radio and sounded the horn but nothing. A little over thirty minutes later the bridge opened. We followed a powerboat out and before long we were past the breakwaters and in Long Island Sound. We avoided the overfills near the breakwaters, and after getting into deeper water, turned to starboard and headed for New Haven.

Approaching New Haven
Looking Forward from Rosalind's Cockpit 

The 35 nautical mile (65 km) trip to New Haven was pleasant with light shipping traffic and fair current. The wind was light and on the nose so we motored all the way. As we approached New Haven, we turned to port and followed the West Haven Channel and in half a mile (1 km) we reached the Pequonnock Yacht Club. We called the club and were told to pick up any of the open moorings outside of the marina. All but one of the moorings were free, so we selected one in deeper water and picked up a mooring pennant. Once we got Rosalind organized, we assembled and inflated the dinghy and went to shore to check in with the club's manager. We had arrived in New Haven. 

Sunset, New Haven, Connecticut

Block Island to Noank, then on to Old Lyme, Connecticut - Post 7

Going north earlier this season it was easier to get a favorable weather window to sail from Cape May to Block Island as the prevailing winds are from the south. Monitoring the weather while we were on Block Island, it was apparent that it would be very difficult to get a two-day weather window with northerly winds to allow us a straight sail to Cape May. 

We would have to break up the sail and stage in Sandy Hook, New Jersey. To get to Sandy Hook from Block Island we had two choices, “outside” (in the Atlantic) or “inside” through Long Island Sound. The outside route, while more direct, requires a specific weather window and offers limited options if the weather deteriorates. We decided to take the Long Island Sound route and see some of this beautiful part of the New England coast. 

So out came Eldridge and we started studying the tides and currents. We picked Noank, Connecticut as our first destination. We looked at the charts and timed our entry into the Sound through Lords Passage. Lords Passage is north of The Race and offers a straighter shot to Noank. Additionally, the currents are not as strong as at The Race where they frequently reach over four knots (7.5 km/hr).

Cottage, Noank, Connecticut

We timed it right, got through Lords Passage uneventfully and got a mooring at Noank Shipyard. We had deflated our dinghy for the short passage from Block Island and we were pleased to find out that the marina offered a launch service. We got Rosalind squared away and took the launch to shore. Noank is a quaint low-key seaside community a few miles from the busy Mystic Seaport. We enjoyed walking around town, saw the 100+ year old general store and had lunch Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough, a classic New England lobster pound restaurant started in 1947.

Buoys and Gulls Outhouse
Abbott's Lobster in the Rough, Noank, Connecticut

Back on Rosalind, we studied Eldridge and worked out our departure time for the next morning. Our next destination was Old Lyme, Connecticut.

The sailing distance from Noank to Old Lyme was just under 22 nautical miles (42 km). The next morning, we timed the tides to have favorable current in Long Island Sound and up the Connecticut River and had a pleasant trip to Old Lyme. Entering the river, we passed between two breakwaters and waited for the railroad bridge to open; the bridge is normally open to allow commercial and recreational boating to go through but it wasn't for us this time. After crossing the railroad bridge, we passed under Interstate 95 and got a mooring at the Old Lyme Marina, three miles (5.5 km) upriver from Long Island Sound and nestled between the Connecticut shore and Calves Island.

Lynde Point Light on Breakwater

Connecticut River Entrance

Interstate 95 and Railroad Bridges in Background

Old Lyme, Connecticut

Calves Island (on left) and Connecticut Shore (on right)

Old Lyme, Connecticut

Old Lyme Marina has been family owned since 1973 and Glenn, the second generation owner, truly made us feel welcome. The marina offered a launch service so we did not have to inflate our dinghy to get to shore. The marina was conveniently located less than ten minutes by foot from a large supermarket. We provisioned, had nice long hot showers on shore and did laundry. There were no laundry facilities at the marina so we took the local bus and had a pleasant ride through scenic Connecticut byways to nearby East Lyme. We did laundry, had a gluten free pizza for lunch and took the bus back to Old Lyme. We said goodbye to Glenn and thanked him for his hospitality, and then took the launch back to Rosalind. The next morning, early, we planned on catching the tide and getting a favorable current going down Long Island Sound towards New Haven.

Being “Locals” on Block Island - Post 6

One thing led to another and we ended up spending over three weeks on Block Island. The first week we had absolutely spectacular weather, balmy with low humidity. We did have wind and sometimes a little too much of it, but it was pleasant. We did not have to think about air conditioning; however, we did spend a significant amount of time on anchor watch. While there is plenty of room to anchor in the Great Salt Pond, the holding is not the best and boats dragging their anchors was a common occurrence.

Rosalind at Anchor, Great Salt Pond, Block Island

We had family visiting and that was great fun all around. We got our guests out to Rosalind with the dinghy and had a great time showing them how we live onboard and cruise.

Staying more than a few days on Block Island, we learned the lay of the land. We found the supermarket, shore showers at the beach pavilion, and learned all about mail deliveries. We purchased an AIS transponder and had it delivered to the island. It took some sorting out but we finally located the package and spent a day getting it installed. (We will be doing a post just on that shortly.) We also ordered microfiber (polyester) sheets, as we found that anything cotton never dried on board. We used our handcart to carry these heavy packages across the island and we were glad to have brought it with us on the trip. The heavy-duty folding cart worked so well that the mail delivery guy wanted to know all about it.

During our stay, we also rented a scooter for a couple of hours and toured the island. We drove to the south end of the island and looked at the Mohegan Bluffs and to the north end to look at Founder's Rock, where the first settlers landed. We walked on the beach at the north end of the island to see the lighthouse up close and learned a lot about seagulls from the local park ranger.

Lyman Runabout, Payne's Dock, Great Salt Pond, Block Island

After the first week, the weather deteriorated. The inverted Omega weather system that brought torrential rains to the eastern United States hit Block Island and it was wet and windy. A gale was forecast and we moved to a mooring to get a break from the anchor watches. Then we got news that our home's basement flooded. Our neighbors emptied 23 buckets of water (they are amazing friends!) but we knew that we had to go back and deal with this. So we got ferry and train tickets and Cheryl went back while I stayed on Rosalind. A few days later Cheryl was back and we had more family visitors.

Schooner Arriving under Sail, Great Salt Pond, Block Island

We had a great time on Block Island, met some locals and were asked if we had “registered to vote yet”. It’s a fun and unique place. Since over half of the island is under land conservation, construction and population density are controlled. Additionally, since there is only a very limited number of rooms for overnighting, it is, in large part, a day island. Tourists, if they have not arrived on their own boat, generally get there by ferry, rent a bike or moped, and take a ferry back to “America” in the afternoon. So, the island quiets down in the evenings and has a very relaxed feeling. 

We had been on Block Island for three weeks and it was time to start thinking about heading out. So, we started looking at weather windows to start heading back south. September and October are peak months for hurricanes and we wanted to be back in the Chesapeake Bay before hurricane activity intensified. 

Sailing Schooner Eros, Great Salt Pond, Block Island

Bumper Boats in the Night - Post 5

The morning after we arrived, we woke up to see Rosalind surrounded by fog. We were snug at anchor, and being the fifth of July, the anchorage was crowded. We read in our cruising guide that as many as 3,000 boats come to Block Island for Independence Day.

One of our Close Neighbors - They Were to Get Much Closer than that...

After the fog cleared, we inflated our dinghy and went to shore to explore. We found the landing at Payne's Dock and quickly got the impression that Block Island was a small island, as it had a small island slow feel even though it was peak tourist season. 

The temperature was pleasant and the sky clear for our excursion to shore but the weather forecast called for a front to move over Block Island on Friday and Saturday, just two days after our arrival. So, on Thursday, we deployed our second anchor, a Danforth type, on 30 ft (9 m) of chain and 170 ft (50 m) of rode. 

Great Salt Pond, the Evening Before the Blow

The front Friday morning generated winds that gusted to 30 knots (55 km/h) but by midday the weather settled so we went to shore for more exploring before turning in for the night. At about midnight, the wind started whistling in the rigging, gusting to 30 knots (55 km/hr). Within minutes, horns were blasting and the VHF radio was buzzing with calls for help and warnings. There were concerns that a big 90+ ft (27+ m) old steel military tug was drifting. The tug, now privately owned, if loose, would cause tremendous destruction across the anchorage, as no one would have enough power to stop it. Also at the time it was not clear if anyone was aboard the vessel. Maybe, just maybe, the tug had just stretched her chain and was now holding put. Many eyes, including ours, were on her throughout the night.

The Old Steel Military Tug

At the same time, a sailboat drifted on another and the local TowBoatUS provided aid. The anchors of the two boats had gotten tangled and it took some effort to free the two boats and get them to secure locations for the night. Several boats on moorings were also reported drifting, but did not pose any immediate dangers. The TowBoatUS captain had not finished securing the first two boats when a second boat lost its holding and started drifting. This one got tangled with a sailboat just upwind of us and passed within 30 ft (9 m) of us. We were very concerned about both boats, all tangled up, starting to drift down on us. The port captain was called by the tow boat operator and was on his way in another boat to assist. The TowBoatUS captain managed to get the drifting boat under control and relocated it to an empty mooring while the other boat also moved away. The boats closest to us were now the big tug to the northwest, a 38 ft (12 m) motor yacht between us and the big tug, and a 56 ft (17 m) Hatteras motor yacht.

We were almost in the clear...

We had seen the Hatteras motor yacht anchor and I had been concerned about the limited amount of chain they had put out for the depth. While they were anchoring, I mentioned in a polite way that we used a scope of 5:1. This is important to know if you anchor very close to someone because if the scopes are different, the boats will swing differently and could possibly collide. My mention of the scope did not result in any additional chain being let out by the Hatteras captain.

The wind started abating and was now gusting to 20 knots (37 km/h). High tide arrived at 2:29 am. At 2:35 am, the Hatteras started dragging its anchor and moving towards us. At about 2:36 am, while folks around the anchorage were blasting their horns to wake up the captain of the drifting Hatteras motor yacht, I put Rosalind in reverse to lessen the impact of the impending collision. About 5 seconds before the collision, the Hatteras owner showed up on deck wearing a robe! In contrast, we, like most others in the anchorage, had been on watch for hours, monitoring the radio and instruments, and wearing our life preservers. We had our second anchor set since the day before, our engine running since the the wind picked up at midnight, our red deck lights on to increase nighttime visibility, and the AIS, radar and chartplotters running.

The Hatteras that Drifted and Hit Rosalind

The TowBoatUS captain was on the scene just after the Hatteras collided with our anchor rollers and bowsprit. Putting Rosalind in reverse helped and the collision was of limited impact. The TowBoatUS captain used his boat (a large 30 ft or 9 m Rigid Inflatable Boat -RIB) as a wedge and pushed the Hatteras away from us. The Hatteras continued drifting downwind with its anchor chain hanging and it caught our dinghy and did some minor damage to our stern light. The TowBoatUS then directed the Hatteras to a shallow area (an otherwise restricted area) to anchor for the night. We stayed up until first light, and turned in at 4:30 am. 

Minor Damage to Rosalind's Stern Light
(Light Post was Easily Straightened)

The captain of the Hatteras never even stopped by to check on the damage he caused or to apologize for the collision. He just left Block Island.

It took us a couple of days to recover from that adventure. We had to check Rosalind for damage and get some much needed rest. Cruising allows us to see new and exciting places, meet fascinating people, and get very close to nature. All this is amazing, but sometimes things can get a little crazy. 

Offshore to Block Island - Post 4

Leaving Cape May in the company of dolphins was a good omen and we were excited about the passage ahead. Two hundred and twenty nautical miles (410 km) was 70% longer than our previous 130 mile (240 km) passage. It would also mark another first for us, as we planned to spend two days out at sea.

Leaving Cape May, there was a breeze of 5-10 knots (9-18 km/h) from the south and it stayed with us for most of the passage, occasionally dropping to zero and other times climbing to 13-15 knots (24-28 km/h). We set the engine to 2000 rpm and motorsailed up the coast. We stayed about 10 miles (18 km) offshore to try and get out of some of the shipping traffic. The strategy worked as we saw several barges between us and the coast.

Ten Miles (18 km) Offshore from the New Jersey Coast

Sport Fisherman in the Distance

In the evening, we were greeted by a beautiful sunset, the first in the open Atlantic in almost ten years. While motoring for prolonged periods is not the most comfortable way to cover sea miles, we got into a routine of two-hour watches. As the night fell, fog rolled in and frequently both of us were in the cockpit to track targets on RADAR and AIS. Visibility in fog at night is really hard to judge but we could see around Rosalind for some short distance, maybe 100 yards (100 meters).

Sunset in the Atlantic

As we approached Sandy Hook and New York City, we started picking up large ships in the shipping lanes. We tracked them and on one occasion communicated with the captain. While we were not transmitting AIS at the time, we did have a RADAR reflector up the mast and we got confirmation that we showed up on RADAR 4.5 miles (8.3 km) away. We could hear the ship's powerful fog horn almost 5 miles (9 km) away but we could not see it, aside from on our instruments. So, it was good to know that we were visible to him.

Light Fog, 10 Miles (18 km) off the New Jersey Coast

Large Ship in the Distance

RADAR (with guard zone in red) and Chartplotter (with AIS) Showing Shipping Traffic at Night, 15 miles (28 km) Offshore of New York City

Our plan was to stay out of the way of the big ships and, to avoid any potential issues, contact them on VHF radio. The communication was well received every time and we found the captains responsive to our RADAR queries.

Shortly after sunset we also started our own fog horn. Our VHF radio has this feature, which proved invaluable, and every two minutes it automatically sounds the fog horn through a hailer which we have mounted on the mizzen mast. This is a great feature as we would not want to have to manually sound a bell every two minutes for hours on end! The bad news is that it’s really hard to sleep with a horn blasting every two minutes...

Fog Getting Thicker, 10 miles (18 km) off Long Island

The next morning we turned to the east, sailing parallel to Long Island, New York. The morning sun burned off the night’s fog and we had a pleasant morning motorsailing along Long Island. By early afternoon fog started rolling in. It was patchy but we had more fog than not. As the temperature dropped, visibility reduced dramatically and through the night we were in pea soup thick fog. It was hard to judge where there was water and where there was not, as everything turned white. There was enough light from our running lights to illuminate the surroundings. It was a strange experience. The great news about the second evening was that we had no traffic around us with the exception of a “ghost ship”. Early in the evening, between some fog patches, we spotted a ship with four or five very bright lights. We estimated it to be several miles away but it was not transmitting an AIS signal and was not showing up on RADAR. After extensive observations we concluded that it must have been a wooden fishing boat. When looking at the charts and chartplotters, we had a question about an exclusion zone and we contacted the Coast Guard for some clarification, but otherwise the evening was uneventful.

The next morning, however, was another story. Rounding Montauk Point on Long Island and getting into Block Island Sound, we got into heavy traffic. The fog was at its thickest with visibility probably down to 100 feet (30 meters). We could see nothing. Our eyes were glued to the RADAR, AIS, and chartplotter. The distance to get to the Great Salt Pond Channel was short, less than six miles (11 km), but the traffic was crazy. We had to make evasive maneuvers twice before we got to the channel and also gave way to a fast-moving catamaran that had no RADAR. We contacted the catamaran on the VHF as we were on a collision course and told them we could see them on AIS and RADAR. They were doing 8 knots (15 km/h) with zero visibility! Their comment was, “We don’t have RADAR but we will sort it all out.” We selected to give them plenty of room and let them pass us. There were almost a dozen boats going in and coming out of the channel, including a tug pulling a barge (i.e., limited maneuverability). After an hour of this, we finally sighted the red entrance marker. The fog was only marginally better and we were no more that 150 ft (45 m) from the entrance when we heard on the VHF, “Watch it sailboat!” Out of the fog, at full speed, comes a 45 foot (14 meter) sport fisherman. I had to put Rosalind in reverse to avoid the collision and then hold on to avoid being tossed by the wake. As a fellow boater said many years ago, “Some people have more money than sense.”

View from Cockpit, Leaving Cape May, New Jersey - Nice!

View from Cockpit, Approach to Block Island Sound 
Visibility Less Than 50 ft (15m)!

We got in the channel and when we entered the Great Salt Pond the fog started lifting. At 10:00 am we dropped anchor in 35 feet (11 meters) of emerald green water and payed out 185 ft (56 m) of chain. We set up the anchor chain snubber and concluded our first 200+ mile (400+ kilometer) passage. It had taken us exactly two days. We were on Block Island!

Cape May, New Jersey - Post 3

The Canyon Club Resort Marina, home to large sport-fishing yachts, was located just outside the Cape May Canal, just after the second bridge in the canal. We crossed the second bridge and turned to port towards the marina, but the current had other ideas. In a couple of seconds Rosalind had done a full 180 degree turn as the current had carried her bow all the way around.  So now we had to turn hard to starboard and get some power in the water to prevent the current from sweeping us past the marina entrance. Before long we were in. 

Negotiating our slip was the next challenge. Located on the other side of the fuel dock, we had to get in the marina, turn to starboard, avoid the shoal area, then do a 180 degree turn. It would be a tight turn for a twin-engine powerboat, let alone for a single-engine sailboat without a bow thruster. Folks from the neighboring powerboat came out to watch; we are guessing part entertainment, part concern about us hitting them. But we got in and Rosalind came to rest against the dock ever so gently. The docking was a success. It was time to cool down so we went to get an ice cream at the marina store and checked in. 

Rosalind in Canyon Club Resort Marina, Cape May, NJ

Later that afternoon we used the marina shuttle to get to town and enjoyed walking and seeing the Painted Ladies, the Victorian homes Cape May is famous for. We really liked the town, because, while filled with tourists, it had a clear history and was not all made up and artificial.

Painted Lady, Cape May, New Jersey

Painted Lady, Cape May, New Jersey

The next day was packed with running errands: getting fuel, going grocery shopping, tracking down hardware, deflating the dinghy and storing it on deck, and getting Rosalind ready for her two-day offshore passage to Block Island. While we were getting Rosalind ready, a grandmother with her grandson walked down the dock and came to visit Rosalind. We were the only sailboat on a dock full of sport fishing boats. With wide eyes, the boy asked, "Are you pirates, and is this a pirate ship?"

Rosalind at Canyon Club Resort Marina, Cape May, NJ

We looked at the tides and were ready to leave at first light but there was not enough water in the marina for us to get out so we had to wait until almost high tide. At 10:00 am we were heading out of Cape May Inlet in the company of dolphins! We were heading offshore to Block Island, 220 nautical miles (410 km) away.

Heading Down Delaware Bay - Post 2

Delaware Bay has the reputation of being a difficult body of water to traverse for several reasons. There is a lot of commercial traffic with cargo ships and barges and it is a very shallow body of water which can be problematic, particularly for deep draft vessels. Lastly, the current can really make for a challenging trip, particularly for sailboats.

Rosalind

The distance from our anchorage just outside the C&D Canal to Cape May, New Jersey, was between 52 and 57 nautical miles (96 and 106 km) depending on whether we got to Cape May through the Cape May Canal or the ocean inlet. Our strategy was the following: get out at first light and head down the Bay as fast as we could. By doing so, we sacrificed the first two hours of favorable current but avoided starting out in complete darkness. Even though we have radar and receive automatic identification system (AIS) signals, we felt the risk of confusing aides to navigation with background lights was still significant. So we decided to start at first light and take the current/tides penalty at the end of the trip when we neared Cape May.

The unanticipated challenge was raising the anchor in almost 3 knots (5 km/h) of current. We had been warned to really set the anchor well to avoid dragging because of the swift current. Now we had the challenge of getting the anchor unstuck in that same swift current. It took us the better part of half an hour, and as soon as the anchor was dislodged, Cheryl had to get Rosalind pointed south and get some water flowing past the rudder in order to get some steerage. We had coordinated our plan and it all worked out; the anchor was up and we were soon heading south. Leaving the anchorage at first light was definitely a wise call as the area around Delaware City was full of shore lights and shipping traffic.

Main Channel Light #32 (with Northbound Current), Delaware Bay

We flew down Delaware Bay occasionally reaching 8 knots (15 km/h) via the combination of sails, motor, and current. Shipping traffic was light and visibility was good, and in early afternoon we were at the entrance of the Cape May Canal. This canal is much narrower than the C&D Canal, is shallower, and has a vertical clearance of 55 ft (17 m) limited by two fixed bridges. 

Cockpit, Motoring down Delaware Bay

We selected to go through the Canal, given our mast clearance of 46 ft (14 m). With strong current against us, it took a while to get through the 3 mile (6 km) canal. Going though the Canal was challenging not only because of the adverse current but because of the wakes caused by very fast moving powerboats. There are the remains of a old swing bridge in the canal, and while the bridge no longer needs to be negotiated vertically, there is only room for one way traffic between the remaining dolphins (foundations). Powerboats were flying in both directions and we had a particularly large boat pass us just before we got to the remnants of the old bridge. The wake caused a mess, tossing all 18,000 lbs (8,200 kg) of Rosalind for a wild ride and it took some effort to hang on. What was amazing was that the offending captain was completely unaware of the mess his wake was making and cheerfully waved to us as he zoomed by! It got a little hairy in the canal for a while but we were finally through it.

Lewes, Delaware to Cape May, New Jersey Ferry

When we left Galesville we were so excited to head out that we did not pay much attention to the calendar. So here we were heading into Cape May on the weekend before the Fourth of July. It was getting late in the day, and with the strong current, we were not about to go wandering around the congested harbor to look for a place to drop the hook. There is really only one good anchorage with limited space. So, with the holiday approaching, we decided not to take a chance but to see if we could get a marina for a day or two to provision and stage for our offshore trip north. It took several calls but we finally found a marina that had a slip and enough water to accommodate our five foot (1.5 m) draft.

Heading out for our Summer Cruise - Post 1

Over the next fourteen weeks we will be sharing with you our 2018 summer cruise. We will be posting once a week. We hope you enjoy the posts.

June 25, 2018 
It's 8:30 pm and we are at our mooring on the West River. The temperature in the salon is still 82F (28C) but in the V-berth the evening breeze provides a gentle freshness. Outside the temperature is balmy. Tomorrow we are leaving our mooring for new harbors and new acquaintances. It’s more than exciting. It has taken lots of work and tons of flexibility to get to this point. 

After spending nearly a year refurbishing Rosalind in 2016, we wanted to head south that year. Some unexpected engine room work pushed back our departure until it got too cold to leave that season. Then, we tried going north the following summer but our plans were forced to change. In the fall, work intervened and changed our plans to go south that year too. Now we are going north, heading out almost two years later than originally planned.

Rosalind

It’s been a long road, but we have learned a lot along the way. We have learned how to live on board and have made a number of important improvements to Rosalind. But we have also learned to really enjoy the process, because at the end of the day, that really is cruising.

June 26, 2018

The weather window that we were waiting for had arrived. Mid-morning on Tuesday, June 26th, we picked up our mooring pennant and headed north on the Chesapeake Bay. The light following winds and seas with assistance from Lucy, our trusted Beta 30 horsepower engine, pushed us up the Bay. We passed Thomas Point Light and before long we were passing Annapolis, the furthest north we had ever sailed until now.  

Chesapeake Bay Bridge

On the VHF radio there was a report of a school of dolphins spotted in the Chesapeake and we took that as a great omen for our cruise. Soon after, we passed under the Bay Bridge and turned east. The wind picked up from zero to 10 knots (0 to 19 km/h) in a matter of minutes, then it went up to 15 knots (28 km/h). We took advantage of the afternoon bay breeze and we had a beautiful sail to the Magothy River entrance. When we reached our destination and anchored in the Magothy River, the wind quickly rose to over 20 knots (37 km/h).

Over the years we had heard great stories about the Magothy and we were soon to discover what a special place the Magothy really is. We anchored in Forked Creek in 14 ft (4 m) of water and enjoyed a great dinner with a spectacular sunset while Rosalind rode out the strong breeze at anchor with her anchor riding sail. 

Sunset, Magothy River, Chesapeake Bay

It's been a day of firsts for us: 

• First time under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge
• First time in the Magothy River
• First time this far north

June 27, 2018

A weather front with strong thunderstorms was moving through the area so we decided to stay an extra day in the Magothy River. We stayed on board and worked on the port hardtop handle in the morning then, after lunch, we listened to podcasts and relaxed. 

June 28, 2018

We left the Magothy River and headed northeast across the Bay to Worton Creek. After 25 miles (46 km) we arrived in Worton Creek where, after setting the anchor and getting Rosalind organized, I jumped overboard for a swim. This far north, the Bay is almost entirely fresh water. The water was a beautiful green color and we could see halfway down the rudder. I had been in the Bay before to clean our prop (not a pleasant experience when you cannot see your extended arm!), but this was my first “pleasure” swim in the Bay. The swim was refreshing and I ended up swimming twice that afternoon as the Mid-Atlantic was starting to see the beginnings of a nationwide heatwave. We shared Worton Creek with a couple of other sailboats, had a great evening, and were again treated to a beautiful sunset and moonrise.

Motorsailing past Baltimore Light towards Worton Creek

June 29, 2018
We had to plan the next leg of the trip carefully because of the strong currents at the top of the Bay and particularly through the Chesapeake & Delaware (C&D) Canal. After consulting Eldridge, the nautical publication that has been providing tides and current information since 1875, we decided that we needed to get out of Worton Creek at first light if we wanted to make it to Chesapeake City without having to fight the current.

We got up before sunrise and at 5:35 am raised anchor and headed north towards the C&D Canal. The C&D Canal links the two namesake bays and offers a shortcut for both commercial and pleasure boats. The Canal is very well marked and is also lit for night transits. Our destination was Chesapeake City, 3 miles (5 km) into the Canal where there is a small anchorage. Chesapeake City is an interesting destination on its own and we planned to stage there in order to get a fair current to transit the remaining 12 miles (22 km) of the Canal. 

The current was with us all the way that day and we flew up the Chesapeake, at times reaching over 7 knots (13 km/h) instead of our normal cruising speed of 5 knots (9 km/h). As we were approaching Chesapeake City we concluded that we should be able to make a run for it and get through the C&D Canal all in one go with about an hour left over before the tide turned. We motored by Chesapeake City, leaving it to explore at another day, and shortly after noon we were in the Delaware Bay.

Conrail Lift Bridge, C&D Canal

We anchored just outside of the Canal in 23 ft (7 m) of water at almost slack water. It was very hot, in the 90s (32+C), so we had cold showers on deck to cool off. By three in the afternoon, the water was flowing by Rosalind at almost 3 knots (6 km/h). There was a light breeze on the water and it, together with the current, created an illusion that we were moving fast. It was a strange experience. We were treated to another beautiful sunset with no wind and slack water. We consulted Eldridge, planned our trip down Delaware Bay, and turned in early. We were going to have an early start (again!) to leverage the outgoing tide.

Sunset, Anchored off Delaware City, Delaware Bay